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Mould/ damp

Discussion in 'Personal' started by T34, Oct 24, 2011.

  1. T34

    T34 Lead commenter

    You can get mould on any cold walls because there is water vapour in the air from our bodies, etc and above a certain partial pressure it will condense on the cooler spots in the room, giving a nice wet environment for mould (and insects, like woodlice) to thrive in.
    Just move your chest of drawers to an inside wall. It is keeping the wall cold and thereby encouraging condensation. Not only that, it is stopping water vapour from blowing away and hence hindering evaporation. You want the water in your room to be in vapour form, not liquid.
    Only well insulated or south-facing outside walls can cope with a piece of furniture against them.
    If you really want to keep the chest in the same position, line the wall with thin insulation sheet.
    As long as water vapour can't get behind the sheet and condense there then you should be all right after that.
    Look askance at "damp proofing" firms. You usually don't need any of that. The houses were probably OK when they were built, even 100 years ago. Before you go down that route, have a look outside and make sure your damp course (probably hard bricks or slate for you) has not been circumvented by a raised path, raised earth or rubbish. Only "damp proofing" firms bent on self destruction will inform you of that.
    None of the wall bricks above the damp course should have contact with the ground by any route except via a damp course.
    Of course, an easier but probably impracticable solution would be to not heat the room and to never go into it.
  2. We found mould on an external wall (when we moved some books on a bookshelf). It was a dodgy gutter - just at that point there was water running down the house when it rained. Fixed the gutter, cleaned the mould, kept the books etc away for a few months, it's never come back (this was about 2 years ago).
  3. jubilee

    jubilee Star commenter

    It's warm air (from your breath etc) hitting a cold surface. You will need to treat the mould with bleach or a propietary mildew/mould cleaner (use gloves) and then position the chest of drawers differently.
    My tenants get occasional mildew on outside walls and I'm planning to have cavity wal insulation put in soon. But we solved the issue of the back of warrobes getting damp by pinning bubble-wrap to the outside back of the wardrobes. That then created a warm insulated gap between the wall and the furniture.
    You can get anti-condensation paint that will increase the temperature of the wall by a few degrees and can be painted over in a colour of your choice. Apply it after cleaning and drying the wall.
    You can also use a dehumidifier to extract surplus water in the air and should adequately heat the room.
    I have what was called a Space Bar in my garage and that has allowed me to keep cushions of garden furniture in there over the winter. Previously the garage got very damp from October onwards. It's like a thick fluorescent tube and fits on the wall on brackets and plugs into a standard socket. It costs about 24p per day in electricity. I got mine from Argos. One of those on a cold interior wall and on a timer ,so that it didn't have to be on around the clock, might do the trick.
  4. oldsomeman

    oldsomeman Star commenter

    If you have to cover the mould then simply used a weak mix or bleach and water otrbetter still buy some mould killer from a store...then when dead paint it with a special paint which covers the mould and stops it showing through.
    On external walls the maint thing is to check if you can....damp is in 3 forms...rising, penertrative and condension.Check the pointing on extenal walls that its not falling out or 'blown', that you dont have objectsleaning against the wall. or a stated water is not running down the walls from say a leaky gutter........it the wall has a grean patch on it then its possible it needs remedial action to sort that out.
    Rising damp needs a special meter to check the damp level.......sometimes caused by soil or concrete bridging the damp course level.If it is this then it will require a firm to inject your walls with silicone and remove the plaster to one metre above the last damp patch.the wall is allowed to dry and then, once dry, its then replastered.
    The other forms of damp have been covered by the other posters.
  5. Dunteachin

    Dunteachin Star commenter

    Had a similar problem in the lounge, which is very big; green mould spots on the back of a sofa and behind a tall display cabinet!! I wondered what the damp smell was.The radiators weren't giving out much heat and no air bricks. Had the room redecorated, walls washed down with bleach solution and new convector style radiators. Has worked. Just have to remember to open the windows sometimes.
  6. cissy3

    cissy3 Star commenter

    I want one of those!!!!!
    (I've just googled, but not getting very far. I'll keep looking though.......)
  7. cissy3

    cissy3 Star commenter

    Found it! Under Argos 'utility heaters' Thanks!!!
  8. jubilee

    jubilee Star commenter

  9. T34

    T34 Lead commenter

    A 100W light bulb would do just as well.
    Oh, I forgot, you can't get them now!
    Used to be the standard solution to cold water cisterns freezing. That was before insulation was discovered - in about 1960.
  10. cissy3

    cissy3 Star commenter

    My mother used to have a strange contraption: a light bulb in a sort of large rigid plastic bubble.
    It was for warming a bed, and it worked a treat! I must ask her if it is still knocking about as it might do the trick for a cold wardrobe or something. (Fire hazard?)

    Thanks Jubilee for the link.

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